Ultimate Tossa de Mar Guide: What to See, Eat & Do
Why visit Tossa de Mar?
Tossa de Mar is not your usual coastal retreat. Yes, there are some lovely beaches. In fact you can choose between pretty rocky coves with perfect snorkelling water, or classic sandy beaches stretching along the Mediterranean. But what makes Tossa really unique is the statuesque walls of Vila Vella (old town), the only intact example of a medieval fortified town on the Catalan Coast. It’s a far cry from the typical coastal tourist towns you might imagine.
Step away from the eateries along the neighbouring beach and into its cobbled streets and you’ll find yourself in a little slice of a fairytale from bygone days. Inside the walls you’ll find charming streets which have changed little over time.
Wander slowly through the town and follow archways and tiny doorways that take you into new and unexpected places. Climb through a hole in the wall to discover a secluded beach or head through an archway and find yourself beneath fluttering washing lines and lilac wisteria draped alleyways. It’s a town that begs to be explored slowly. Here you can discover a lighthouse standing on the site of a previous castle; the ruins of a church with breathtaking sea views; tiny, local restaurants serving local seafood or head along the coastal paths to quiet, pretty coves.
Tossa de Mar is just 90 minutes from the Catalan capital Barcelona. You could visit on a day trip but consider staying longer and exploring this enchanting coastal region. We visited for a few days after a brilliant but busy family weekend in Barcelona. Visiting high energy Barcelona, followed by a gentle coastal break in Tossa de Mar made for a family holiday that will stick in our minds for a long time to come.
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Tossa de Mar Highlights
There’s plenty to choose from, however these experiences have a special place in our memories.
- Wandering the enchanting streets of Vila Vella
- Taking a 4×4 tour into the mountainous region of Tossa
- Taking the glass-bottomed boat to Cala Giverola and walking back along the coast path
- Snorkelling in Cala Bona
- Eating lobster Paella at Restaurant Santa Marta grup el xiringuito
- Lazy evenings sitting outside to eat in the old town
While you’re in the area, try our Barcelona Family itinerary and our review of the Runner Bean Tours Barcelona kids and family walking tour in The Gothic Quarter.
How to use this guide
Day trip? Stick to the old town, beaches, and lighthouse
3–5 nights? Add hikes, boat trips, and mountain tours. Enjoy the town at sunset after the day trip visitors have departed.
More time? Explore wider Costa Brava, Girona, or Montserrat
Trip Planning
Where is Tossa de Mar?
Tossa de Mar is in the Catalonian region of Spain. The tiny town is found on the Costa Brava between Barcelona and the French/ Spanish border.
Getting there and away
If flying into Barcelona, before you travel, book coach travel from either Barcelona Estacio del Nord or Barcelona airport using Moventus. These coaches can be used for a daytrip or a longer stay.
Tossa de Mar is a brilliant place to relax after a hectic visit to Barcelona. If you are short on time a day would allow you to see the major sights, but we would recommend a longer visit if you are able to.
Consider starting in Barcelona, then taking the bus to Tossa de Mar for a few nights, before taking the bus directly to the airport to avoid the need for extra transport. We stayed at the BAH Airport Hotel in Barcelona which has an excellent breakfast, clean spacious rooms, an outdoor pool and airport transfer. It was perfect for a single night before flying home.
What language is spoken in Tossa de Mar?
Tossa de Mar is located in Catalonia and Catalan is the local language. You’ll find signs and menus in Catalan, Spanish and often English. A few words of Spanish, or even better Catalan, will go a long way towards making your stay even friendlier.
Is Tossa de Mar good for families?
Spanish people are famously accepting of children and Tossa de Mar is no exception. With a range of beaches to explore, an intriguing old town, Roman remains and plenty of water activities on offer (diving, snorkelling, kayaking and paddleboarding are all available in peak season). Boat trips straight from the beach are also usually a big hit with kids. Tossa de Mar is that perfect combination of beach side activities and an interesting town to explore which should keep adults, kids and teens equally happy.
When to visit Tossa de Mar
We visited at the start of the season in April. The weather was warm and perfect for walking, but there weren’t many water activities on offer yet.
May, June, July or September would be great months to visit. In August you will benefit from everything being open, but it is likely to be busier and a little hot for hiking.
Getting around town
Once you have arrived at Tossa de Mar bus station, it is only a 10 minute walk to the centre of the old town and main beaches. Tossa is very easy to navigate on foot. To travel further up the coast you could take a bus, taxi or walk.
Where to stay in and around Tossa de Mar
Holiday Rental
We rented an apartment by the seafront and it turned out to be one of the loveliest we have ever stayed in. The location was perfect, looking directly over the beach and Vila Vella. Owners Kristjàn and Ana met us at the property and provided all the information we needed for a brilliant stay. They are also on hand to answer questions during your stay and all the properties are spotlessly clean.
They have a great range of properties in the area and are full of helpful advice. We found this apartmant through booking.com, and there are lots of similar ones, including many managed by Kristjàn and Ana at Lets Holidays.
Camping
Try camping Cala Pola, 3km from the main town and right on the beach. We walked through this place and it looks fabulous for a family break. They have an outdoor pool, tennis courts, restaurants and kids club. You could take your own tent or stay in one of their bungalows.
Hotel
If budget allows, Rafael Nadal’s Zel hotel in Cala Giverola is lovely. The hotel is nestled in this beautiful cove, with a funicular up to the cliff top accommodation and plenty of sports facilities. There is a bus service into Tossa de Mar so you won’t miss out on all that Tossa has to offer too.
Where to Eat
L’espai – This is an unusual restaurant in a stunning location for a special meal. They pride themselves on Catalan cuisine with a twist. They also hold cooking classes.
Restaurant Santa Marta grup el xiringuito – This is a gorgeous, local restaurant in the old town The service is perfect: friendly, warm and welcoming. Regional cuisine and Catalan classics are cooked fresh. If you are visiting with picky kids there are plenty of options to keep them happy too. We couldn’t recommend the lobster Paella more highly. Make sure you book in advance as this place is busy with locals and tourists alike, and for very good reason.
Restaurant Castell Vell – A picturesque outdoor terrace, draped with wisteria in spring, situated in the heart of the old town opposite the museum.
Pizzeria Anna – The best pizza spot in town. Cute indoor and outdoor tables with red and white checked table cloths. Friendly staff, decent food and a lovely atmosphere. We also like this spot for an afternoon drink.
Vila Vella Terraza Bar – Gorgeous, scenic spot for tapas and drinks with outdoor seating, amazing views across the old town and frequent live music.
BlauBlanc Gelato&Lounge – Delicious ice cream in many flavours, impossible to resist a repeat visit.
Self catering – There are several supermarkets in town, the best stocked option in walking distance of the old town is Esclat, which is opposite the bus station.
What should I do in Tossa de Mar?
Travel Tip: Pop into the Oficina de Turismo (next to the bus station) for a local map and advice.
Explore Vila Vella (also known as Muralles de Tossa de Mar)
The old town is a wonderful place to explore at any time of day, but particularly lovely at sunrise and sunset. Vila Vella is the only remaining fortified town on the Catalan coast. Built in the 14ᵗʰ century, most of the structure is still intact, with most of the seven towers remaining. Follow the walls around the town, then head up the path towards Tossa Lighthouse, passing the ruins of the gothic church of Sant Vicenç, damaged in the 19th century by Napolean’s army. Despite the church being ruined, the apse remains almost perfectly preserved, overlooking the Mediterranean. Once you arrive at the lighthouse, you will be treated to 180 degree views of the coast. Follow any of the paths back down to town and explore the cobbled streets of the old town.
Don’t miss climbing through the Agujero del Demonio (Devil’s hole), which you will find near the museum. This little hole opens up onto a platform above Platja d’es Codolar, a tiny but breath-taking cove nestled between dramatic cliffs and the walls of Muralles de Tossa de Mar. The hole, which was built as an access to the cove for fishermen, featured in a music video by KPop star YooA and also features in Korean series The Legend of the Blue Sea. There can be lots of young tourists taking photos here, however everyone is super respectful and it is well worth a visit.
See the other side of Tossa de Mar with a 4×4 tour of the mountains.
For a totally different and fascinating experience, we would highly recommend the Tossa Tour.
These tours, run by serving fire officers, head up into the mountains around Tossa de Mar. The views across the area are spectacular and you will discover the incredible history a very different side of the area, far away from beach front fish restaurants and bars.
Highlights include the historic hermitage of Sant Grau d’Ardenya, the highest point of the Cadiretes natural park, history of revolution and the cork industry and incomparable views you can find over the Tossa de Mar region.
Take to the water with a water based tour of the area
Join a tour kayaking, diving or snorkeling the crystal clear waters and quiet coves of the Mediterranean. On our next visit we will definitely be joining a snorkel and kayak tour because the sea is divine in this area.
Take a tour of Tossa de Mar’s dramatic coastline in a glass bottomed boat
The Fondo Cristal glass bottomed boat runs from Tossa de Mar to Cala Giverola, visiting sea caves, quiet coves and rock formations along the way. Kids are always fascinated watching fish and the occasional diver swimming beneath the boat. A great option is to take the boat one way and walk back along the Cami de Ronda. Ask when buying your ticket (there are ticket offices in town and on Platja Gran) for a map of the route back. Don’t expect a lot of information, this is more about soaking up the scenery.
Find the bronze statues of Ava Gardner
In 1950, Ava Gardener starred in the film ‘Pandora and The flying Dutchman’, which was filmed in Tossa de Mar. This put Tossa firmly on the tourist map with Hollywood and ignited the tourism boom. A bronze statue by Catalan artist Ció Abellí commemorates the film and actress. She can be found in Villa Vella, looking out to sea.
Near the beach front in Platja Gran, just outside the city walls you will find another of the artist’s sculptures. The statue commemorates the fishing industry, and auction, which closed in 1994 when the last fishmonger retired.
Hike the Camí de Ronda
Route 1: Roundtrip to Cala Giverola from Tossa de Mar
Distance: 5km each way
Either follow the whole route, or cut out half of the walk by taking the boat to Cala Giverola (see boat trips above). The route follows the coastline, passing through pretty Cala Bona (a rocky cove with perfectly clear water for snorkelling) and Cala Pola (small sandy beach).
The route is roughly 5km each way, and you need decent footwear for the cliff path. It passes through pine and cork forest, with gorgeous views along the entire way and plenty of places to stop for a swim. Make sure to bring water. There is a restaurant at the zel hotel in Cala Giverola and food available in the campsite at Cala Pola. A picnic is a good idea for this walk.
Route 2: Castles and coves of Tossa de Mar circular route.
Distance: 8km
A gorgeous loop walk through forest paths with incredible views over Tossa de Mar and visiting several coves and the Torre des Moros tower as you return to Tossa de Mar. This walk starts with a pretty strenuous climb before levelling out.
Spend the day on the beaches of Tossa de Mar
You are spoilt for choice with 3 beaches in town and several more if you are happy to walk or catch the boat along the coast. Locals prefer the Calas (coves) to the Platjas (beaches). Try a few and decide for yourself.
- Platja Gran – The main beach at the foot of Villa Vella. This beach is a large expanse of sand and views of the old town. It is the largest beach and closest to the shops, restaurants and bars of the old town.
- Platja de la Mar Menuda – Pretty spot, small cove backed by breezy restaurants. Rocky outcrop frames the beach and the shallow water at this end is great for snorkellers and divers to access the crystal clear water.
- Platja d’es Codolar – A tiny beach tucked round the corner from the Agujero del Demonio (Devil’s hole).This is a peaceful spot in a stunning location between the cliffs leading to the Camí de Ronda and the Muralles de Tossa de Mar.
- Cala Bona (3km from centre) – Rocky cove with crystal clear water, great for paddleboarding, relaxing and kayaking.
- Cala Pola (4km from centre) – A sandy cove near to camping Pola with pristine white sand, surrounded by cliffs covered in evergreen trees, rosemary and lavender.
- Cala Giverola (5km from centre) – An absolutely stunning white sand cover with turquoise waters beneath the cliffs. The Zel hotel is located here.
- Cala Futadera (6km) – Another gorgeous cover, this one is the local residents favourite.
Don’t forget to pack
- Swimwear & snorkel gear
- Decent hiking shoes
- Reusable water bottle
- Light layers (evenings)
- Sunscreen & hat
FAQs about Tossa de Mar
is Tossa de Mar worth visiting?
Yes! The unique medieval town, gorgeous beaches, great restaurants and coastline make Tossa de Mar a fabulous location to visit. It’s in a fantastic location on the Costa Brave, just 90 minutes from Barcelona.
Is Tossa de Mar lively?
Tossa has a relaxed vibe, however it is lively in summer evenings
What to do around Tossa de Mar?
Hike the Cami de Ronda, visit beaches, take a boat trip, visit the museum to learn about history or head into the hills on a 4×4 tour
Which is nicer, Lloret de Mar or Tossa de Mar?
Tossa is quieter and more historic and retains much of its charm, Lloret is busier and not as picturesque, but is closer to barcelona and has a wider variety of facilities. We recommend Tossa de Mar.
What day is market day?
Thursday
Is Tossa de Mar walkable?
Yes, entirely. Everything is with 10 minutes of each other.
How far is Tossa from the French border?
About 120km
Ready to Discover Tossa de Mar for Yourself?
Whether you’re wandering the medieval walls of Vila Vella, snorkelling hidden coves, or sharing lobster paella under the stars, Tossa de Mar offers something truly special for families who love to explore beyond the typical package tour. It’s the kind of place that stays with you— charming, adventurous and memorable.
Planning your trip? Bookmark this guide, share it with your travel crew, and let us know your thoughts in the comments below.
